TRAVELING IN
THE CANADIAN MARITIMES
By
Stephanie Bernhagen and Jim Cook
(with update by Jaimie Hall-Bruzenak)
Ah, what magical provinces
New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and Newfoundland are! A
large part of the magic comes from the scenic beauty and the outgoing
friendliness of the people. This is to be savored!
A trip to the Maritime
Provinces can give you a real appreciation for the good roads and
campgrounds that we take for granted here in the U.S. But don't let this
article discourage you from visiting the Maritimes, you would be cheating
yourself out of a wonderful trip!
CAMPGROUND ELECTRICITY
After a long, tough day of
driving by waterfalls, green forests and breath-taking shorelines, you
finally pull into a campground. Setting up, you approach the utility post
with your 50-amp plug in your hand when you discover there is only 15 amp
electric service available. “What? How un-American!” Then you
remember, “Oh yeah, this is a foreign country,” as you dig out the 15
to 50 amp adapter.
You climb into your rig and
casually flip on the water heater. From the kitchen corner where the
voltmeter lives you hear a faint, “Help! Help!” One hundred lousy
volts! The red low-voltage light glows menacingly, warning of an impending
appliance meltdown.
“Hah!” you say as you
switch the water heater, refrigerator and everything else that you can to
propane. “Who needs all that power? We're roughing it! Yes, sir! We're
camping!”
The good news about camping
in Canada is the campgrounds are very affordable! The most expensive was
under $20 US, while most were around $10 US.
NEWFOUNDLAND CAMPING
Learning as we travel is one
of the joys of RVing. For instance, we learned a new expression: “gravel
pit camping.” Sounds appealing…no? However, gravel pit camping turns
out to be a pretty good deal.
When the Newfoundlanders
need gravel to build a new road, they dig a pit close by instead of
hauling gravel from miles away. When the road is complete, the gravel pit
is left behind, leaving an open, level area perfect for parking a RV.
Operating a campground in
Newfoundland is not exactly the way to get rich quick. Campgrounds have a
very short season. They are often found closed for good, not where you
want one, or not large enough to accommodate a big rig. That's when
“gravel pit camping” comes in handy.
When we asked a merchant for
permission to park in their parking lot, we were welcomed with open arms.
They were aware that campgrounds are in short supply. Just be sure to ask
permission and use boondocking courtesy so RVers will be welcome for years
to come.
We hiked a trail at Kings
Point, Newfoundland and discovered an RV dump at the trailhead. We left
word for two other couples who later tried this camping spot. They were
unable to hike the trail though, because they were too busy entertaining
the town mayor, the tourism director, the local dogcatcher and everybody
else who came out to welcome them to the area.
One night we parked in a
grocery store lot. We must have stood out like a palm tree in a snowstorm,
because as soon as we set up, a friendly Newfoundlander (Newfie) came by
to answer any questions we might have about that region. The people and
their kindness are part of the Newfoundland magic!
NEWFOUNDLAND FERRY
Unless you have an enormous
set of water wings, the only way to get your RV to Newfoundland is by
ferryboat. There are two options, either a five-hour ferry trip to
Channel-Port aux Basques or a 15-hour ferry ride to Argentia. Both trips
depart and return to North Sydney, Nova Scotia.
These ferries are huge, with
two decks to park cars, RVs and semis. There is plenty of height clearance
for RVs and adequate space between vehicles once parked on the ferry. Once
on board, you can chow down at the cafeteria, lounge in the lounge, or
recline in a recliner. And just like Delta Airlines, they even show
movies.
These ferries are fully
booked July through September, so plan ahead. If you are traveling
overnight you may want to reserve a cabin. They are limited, so call well
in advance.
If Fido is along, you may be
able to use one of the ferry's kennels. Most people leave their pets in
their RVs, since that is where they are most comfortable. On the long
ferry you may return to your RV about every three hours to care for your
pet. It is highly unlikely Fido will make use of the car deck when you
take him for a walk. Somehow the vibrating steel deck just doesn't
communicate the same message to a dog as a grassy field does.
ROUGH ROADS
The road conditions in the
Maritimes aren't something the tourist bureaus brag much about, and for
good reason. The Trans-Canadian Highway is generally good, but if you
venture beyond this highway in the Maritimes, you are likely in for a
rough ride. Between the winter weather and the small tax base, Canada is
just not able to keep all the roads in top-notch condition. These rough
roads should be experienced, however, as they expose the beauty and
uniqueness of the Maritimes.
Most roads are passable at
20 to 30 mph, so allow enough time to travel at this pace. Consider the
skid marks you see on the road an Early Warning System for rough pavement
ahead.
On your side trip to see
Bonavista, Newfoundland, stay on Route 230. If you choose Routes 233 or
234 they will thoroughly test your RV's suspension system and your ability
to pack things snugly away.
Prince Edward Island easily
won our “Worst Roads in the Eastern Provinces” competition. There were
so many patches in the road it was like driving over an asphalt quilt.
GRADES
Everybody likes surprises,
that is, unless the surprise is a series of 15 percent grades on the
highway ahead.
We were totally caught off
guard in Newfoundland and had no warning about the grades between St.
Bride's and Placentia. Picture six charming communities wedged between
seven scenic mountains with approximately a mile of steep road in and out
of each community.
Cape St. Mary's is for the
birds. This little bird village, south of St. Bride's, is home to seven
different species of cliff-dwelling birds. They leave even those of us
with no interest in birds in awe. Find a place to leave your rig in
Placentia and make a day trip to Cape St. Mary's.
Arriving back in Nova Scotia
we checked with the friendly folks at the tourist bureau and asked whether
we should drive the rig over the Cabot Trail. “RV's do it all the
time,” they responded casually. Sure they do…but that doesn't mean
they should!
Using the elevation signs
and our odometer, we calculated an average grade of almost 11 percent on
some sections of the Trail. Yes, I can hear you saying “Horsefeathers!
Why all this fuss over 11 percent? I can drive that with a full blackwater
tank.” Well, that was the average grade. When you throw in a few flat
spots, some of the grades must have approached 20 percent. Toss in a few
hairpin turns, including one long motorhomes have trouble making, and you
have a very interesting road. At least the pavement was smooth. A day trip
around the Cabot Trail in the toad is the way to see this area.
The Maritime Provinces are
indeed magical! Keep in mind, difficult road conditions are often
accompanied by spectacular views. Work with the camping and road
challenges and you too can experience the magic!
Tourist Information
New
Brunswick (800) 561-0123
Newfoundland (800) 563-6353
Nova Scotia (800)
565-0000
Prince Edward Island
(888) PEI-PLAY (734-7529)
Ferry between Nova Scotia and Newfoundland:
Marine Atlantic, PO Box 250, North Sydney, NS B2A 3M3
(800) 341-7981
Jim Cook and his wife
Cindy are in their fifth year of full-timing. Jim enjoys writing on the
lighter side. When he's not writing, he flies R/C planes and kites.
2007 Additions:
Iceberg
finder
Verizon has a North American plan which includes calls from Canada.
There is also a Verizon Canada plan.
Satellite Internet: Starband does
have a satellite which receives signals. Check with them. For Hughes, you
need G3C, 95W which works in Canada and Alaska
Propane is expensive. Go
in with a full tank.
There is a Costco in St. Johns.
Have all your
prescription medications for the full time you'll be there.
Know what
you can take in and out of Canada. No houseplants, dirt or root vegetables
into Nova Scotia. Get information at the Canadian
customs Web site before going.
